Olympic National Park
Sights To See
The three areas of Olympic National Park—the mountains, forest and coast—may be accessed by U.S. 101 with spur roads leading to some areas. For an orientation to the park, begin your visit at Olympic National Park Visitor Center which is located in Port Angeles. Stretch your legs on the Living Forest Nature Trail immediately behind the visitor center.
Mountains
Take the spur road off of U.S. 101 leading to Hurricane Ridge. Leaving the coastal plain of the Strait of Juan de Fuca, the road enters the lowland forest at Olympic National Park Visitor Center and winds high up into the mountain ridges. The magnificent vistas of Hurricane Ridge showcase the glacier-covered peaks, subalpine tundra and steep river valleys of the Olympic Mountains. In summer, wildflowers carpet the subalpine meadows, spreading softly before a backdrop of rugged peaks and glaciers. Join an education ranger in the summer for a walk through the meadows.
Some of the best views of Mount Olympus are from Obstruction Point Road which is a steep, 7.8-mile dirt road, going east from Hurricane Ridge (open mid-summer to early fall).
Forests
Return to Port Angeles and continue west on U.S. 101. Soon you will see glacier-carved Lake Crescent, a deep, freshwater lake known for its Beardslee trout. Travel writer H.F. Dodge wrote of it in 1903, "As I turned for a last glimpse of the beautiful blue lake dissolving in the firs, I said to myself, ‘This is surely hard to beat.' Gem indeed of the Olympics, and worth three times the stay." The 0.66-mile "Moments in Time" interpretive trail (accessible with assistance) winds along the tip of Barnes Point. Less than a mile from the lake is Marymere Falls, a ribbon of water cascading 90 feet to a pool below.
West of Lake Crescent, a spur road leads to Sol Duc. According to American Indian legend, the Sol Duc Hot Springs were formed when two dragons had a great fight that lasted many years. They knocked down all the timber from the tops of the mountains and scattered boulders through the valleys. The dragons' skins flew off and became the mosses and lichens hanging from the trees of the rain forest. When neither dragon could defeat the other, they both crept back to their caves. The hot tears they cried formed Sol Duc and Olympic hot springs.
Trails lead to Salmon Cascades and to ancient Sol Duc Falls forests.
Access the Hoh Rain Forest and its visitor center by taking a spur road off coastal U.S. 101, south of Forks. Located on the moist, west side of the park, 30 miles from the coast, this temperate rain forest receives 140 inches of rainfall annually. Some of the world's largest trees grow here. Western red cedar and western hemlock can tower up to 200 feet above the ground, while some Sitka spruce and douglas firs can reach 300 feet. Ferns arc like feathers from the forest floor. Mosses shroud the trees, covering the trunks in fuzzy green. The air is heavy with moisture and sounds are muffled. Bare earth is not visible beneath the countless plant species that compete for space and nutrients.
Explore a self-guiding trail or take a ranger-led nature walk in the rain forest. Please see page 46 for more details.
Another accessible, but less crowded rain forest is Quinault, located in the park, and Olympic National Forest (32 miles south of Kalaloch). Take the North or South Shore spur roads off U.S. 101. Glacier-carved Lake Quinault, with its deep, clear waters and forest-ringed shore, is a popular fishing site. You can obtain a fishing permit from the Quinault Indian Reservation at local stores.
Why So Much Rain?
When it comes to rain, the Olympic Peninsula has few equals; the western valleys of the Olympic Mountains average between 120 and 167 inches of rain annually. That is more rain than anywhere else in the continental U.S. Three factors produce the amazing amount of rain that falls on the peninsula— the cool ocean currents, prevailing westerly winds and the Olympic Mountains. While the top of Mount Olympus is deluged by 200 inches of precipitation annually, the town of Sequim may get less than 16 inches because it is located on the dry northeastern side of the Olympics.
A Coastal World
While the large, interior portion of the park is characterized by forests and mountains, the coastal zone is a world apart. Eerie sea stacks, remnants of eroded coastal cliffs that loom out of the water, seem to guard the coastline. From Shi Shi Beach to Kalaloch, more than 73 miles of wilderness beaches off coastal U.S. 101 preserve a remnant of coastal habitat. Most beaches are accessible only by foot or by boat. In the pools and on the rocks of the tidal zone lives a diversity of marine life—barnacles, sea stars, small crabs and many other animals.
Join a park ranger for a summer guided intertidal walk or take a hike through the coastal forests at Mora or Kalaloch. Paths lead down to five different beaches from Ruby Beach to Kalaloch. Information and publications are available at the Mora and Kalaloch ranger stations in summer.
Ozette, located on a spur road off U.S. 112, in the far northwestern corner of the park offers boardwalk trails to hike (3 to 3.5 miles one way) to several beaches where you can enjoy the coastal wilderness. Ozette Lake, the second largest natural body of freshwater in western Washington State, is also located there. Overnight hikes require reservations from May 1 through September 30. You can hike, fish, boat or visit the Makah Cultural and Research Center in nearby Neah Bay as well.
Olympic In Depth
News from the Parks
75th Anniversary of the Civilian Conservation Corps
August 29, 2008 - 1:49pm
This year marks the 75th anniversary of the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC), designed by Franklin D. Roosevelt as part of the New Deal to provide relief from the Great Depression. The CCC employed over two million young men to work in America’s parks and forests, creating and renovating roads, trails, campsites, social halls, amphitheaters and visitor centers. The program provided work in a time of great instability, but more importantly it offered disheartened Americans the chance to improve the nation's future, while strengthening their dignity and hope. They were making history by providing easier access to the treasures of the national park system. Nicknamed "Roosevelt's Tree Army," the CCC was operated through the cooperative efforts of four departments. The Department of Labor oversaw the selection of enrollees, the Army ran the camps, and the Interior and Agriculture departments provided work projects. Initially, unmarried men, between the ages of 18 and 25 and from families on relief, could apply. They enlisted for six months, with an option to reenlist for up to two years. The "CCC boys" worked for $30 a month, $25 of which was sent to their families. Eventually, "Local Experienced Men" (LEMs) and World War I veterans could enroll. Although a few work camps were established for women, most CCC enrollees were men. Nationwide, the CCC operated 4,500 camps! The CCC advanced natural resource conservation by decades, and provided education, training and experience for a generation of young men and women. Since then, millions of visitors to the national park system have enjoyed the work of the CCCs! Parks nationwide are commemorating the inspiring government leaders and hardworking young men that made up the Civilian Conservation Corps, and its contributions to parks across the country! Happy Birthday Civilian Conservation Corps!
August 29, 2008 - 1:49pm
This year marks the 75th anniversary of the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC), designed by Franklin D. Roosevelt as part of the New Deal to provide relief from the Great Depression. The CCC employed over two million young men to work in America’s parks and forests, creating and renovating roads, trails, campsites, social halls, amphitheaters and visitor centers. The program provided work in a time of great instability, but more importantly it offered disheartened Americans the chance to improve the nation's future, while strengthening their dignity and hope. They were making history by providing easier access to the treasures of the national park system. Nicknamed "Roosevelt's Tree Army," the CCC was operated through the cooperative efforts of four departments. The Department of Labor oversaw the selection of enrollees, the Army ran the camps, and the Interior and Agriculture departments provided work projects. Initially, unmarried men, between the ages of 18 and 25 and from families on relief, could apply. They enlisted for six months, with an option to reenlist for up to two years. The "CCC boys" worked for $30 a month, $25 of which was sent to their families. Eventually, "Local Experienced Men" (LEMs) and World War I veterans could enroll. Although a few work camps were established for women, most CCC enrollees were men. Nationwide, the CCC operated 4,500 camps! The CCC advanced natural resource conservation by decades, and provided education, training and experience for a generation of young men and women. Since then, millions of visitors to the national park system have enjoyed the work of the CCCs! Parks nationwide are commemorating the inspiring government leaders and hardworking young men that made up the Civilian Conservation Corps, and its contributions to parks across the country! Happy Birthday Civilian Conservation Corps!
September Featured Species: Zebra Mussels
August 29, 2008 - 12:53pm
Mussels are a key part of our aquatic ecosystems. They’re filter feeders, meaning they filter the water as they eat the debris that floats in it. They also serve as a food source for birds and small animals as well as fish … and humans. Usually there’s not much more to say about this animal, but one particular species has made a journey that highlights not only its hardiness but also the vulnerable balance of native ecosystems. Zebra mussels are small, freshwater mollusk species named for the stripes that commonly line the outside of their shells. Their sizes and shapes range can vary – oblong to almost circular, measuring anywhere from the size of a fingernail to two inches long – so it can be tricky to identify at first. The species is native to the lakes of Southern Russia but has been introduced, and has since caused quite a stir, in North America, the British Isles, Spain and Sweden. In these places the species has overgrown, and while it filters the water and provides food for bottom feeders in waterways, it’s more of an unchecked pest than anything. Zebra mussels are prolific. An adult female can produce between 30,000 and a million eggs in a year, which are fertilized during spring spawning sessions. What’s more, there are too few predators to keep the species in check. Having so many mussels around may not seem like a big problem on its face, but it has proven to be quite costly not only to the other members of its ‘host’ ecosystem but to humans as well. Many native lakes in North American have seen their native mussel populations drop due to the invasion of the zebra. It tends to latch onto the hardest substrates in the watery environment. In silty sands, these objects are the native mussels themselves, which are then often killed by the attachment of the zebra. The US coastguard estimates the cost of economic losses and control measures around the zebra to be worth about 5 billion dollars each year! These are hearty creatures that can survive out of water for several days or weeks if the temperature and humidity allow for it. Since 1988 they’ve have reproduced and weathered their way to richly populate all of the great lakes and begin a sprawl into the major rivers in the US. Scientists predict that the zebra mussel will continue to spread its population range by riding along the bottoms of small vessels and tourist ships. Zebra mussels can disrupt the food chain in freshwater ecosystems, ruin facilities like docks and rams, clog pipelines and engines and litter beaches with their smelly shells. But you can help to stop this trend of their growth in the US. Before launching your boat, you can check it thoroughly. Remove all mud, plant and animal debris from the boat, trailer and other equipment to enter the water. When you’re out of the water, drain the boat, motor and live well so that it can dry out – the boat needs to be completely dry for at least five days before entering another body of water. Doing your part will help protect freshwater ecosystems around the US and in our national parks, as well as reduce the dollars spent to reduce the damage caused by this prolific species.
August 29, 2008 - 12:53pm
Mussels are a key part of our aquatic ecosystems. They’re filter feeders, meaning they filter the water as they eat the debris that floats in it. They also serve as a food source for birds and small animals as well as fish … and humans. Usually there’s not much more to say about this animal, but one particular species has made a journey that highlights not only its hardiness but also the vulnerable balance of native ecosystems. Zebra mussels are small, freshwater mollusk species named for the stripes that commonly line the outside of their shells. Their sizes and shapes range can vary – oblong to almost circular, measuring anywhere from the size of a fingernail to two inches long – so it can be tricky to identify at first. The species is native to the lakes of Southern Russia but has been introduced, and has since caused quite a stir, in North America, the British Isles, Spain and Sweden. In these places the species has overgrown, and while it filters the water and provides food for bottom feeders in waterways, it’s more of an unchecked pest than anything. Zebra mussels are prolific. An adult female can produce between 30,000 and a million eggs in a year, which are fertilized during spring spawning sessions. What’s more, there are too few predators to keep the species in check. Having so many mussels around may not seem like a big problem on its face, but it has proven to be quite costly not only to the other members of its ‘host’ ecosystem but to humans as well. Many native lakes in North American have seen their native mussel populations drop due to the invasion of the zebra. It tends to latch onto the hardest substrates in the watery environment. In silty sands, these objects are the native mussels themselves, which are then often killed by the attachment of the zebra. The US coastguard estimates the cost of economic losses and control measures around the zebra to be worth about 5 billion dollars each year! These are hearty creatures that can survive out of water for several days or weeks if the temperature and humidity allow for it. Since 1988 they’ve have reproduced and weathered their way to richly populate all of the great lakes and begin a sprawl into the major rivers in the US. Scientists predict that the zebra mussel will continue to spread its population range by riding along the bottoms of small vessels and tourist ships. Zebra mussels can disrupt the food chain in freshwater ecosystems, ruin facilities like docks and rams, clog pipelines and engines and litter beaches with their smelly shells. But you can help to stop this trend of their growth in the US. Before launching your boat, you can check it thoroughly. Remove all mud, plant and animal debris from the boat, trailer and other equipment to enter the water. When you’re out of the water, drain the boat, motor and live well so that it can dry out – the boat needs to be completely dry for at least five days before entering another body of water. Doing your part will help protect freshwater ecosystems around the US and in our national parks, as well as reduce the dollars spent to reduce the damage caused by this prolific species.
15th Annual National Public Lands Day
August 29, 2008 - 12:18pm
Don’t miss this great opportunity to join more than 100,000 volunteers in the country’s single largest hands-on volunteer effort for America’s public lands. In addition to celebrating the natural beauty of our parks, trails, lakes and seashores, you’ll have a chance to get involved in your community by helping with a variety of volunteer projects, including building trails and bridges, planting trees and plants, and removing trash and invasive plants. American Park Network is proud to announce that our long-standing partner, and supporter of parks, AVEENO®, is now the national sponsor of National Public Lands Day. If you decide to volunteer, be sure to add a camera to the list of gear you’ll need on NPLD! Everyone is encouraged to participate in the Ninth Annual National Public Lands Day Photo Contest, which is open to all NPLD volunteers! The contest will showcase the natural beauty of our country's public lands and give volunteers the chance to win great prizes from AVEENO®. The contest has two categories. The first is “Volunteers in Action,” highlighting the great work taking place on NPLD and all of the people who make the day a success. The second category, “Transformative Change,” will enable volunteers who care so much about our public places to show the nation the impact they’ve made during NPLD. In addition to great AVEENO® gifts for the contest winners, there will be a $500 donation made to the sites affiliated with the top five photos in the “Transformative Change” category in support of their commitment to transformation!
August 29, 2008 - 12:18pm
Don’t miss this great opportunity to join more than 100,000 volunteers in the country’s single largest hands-on volunteer effort for America’s public lands. In addition to celebrating the natural beauty of our parks, trails, lakes and seashores, you’ll have a chance to get involved in your community by helping with a variety of volunteer projects, including building trails and bridges, planting trees and plants, and removing trash and invasive plants. American Park Network is proud to announce that our long-standing partner, and supporter of parks, AVEENO®, is now the national sponsor of National Public Lands Day. If you decide to volunteer, be sure to add a camera to the list of gear you’ll need on NPLD! Everyone is encouraged to participate in the Ninth Annual National Public Lands Day Photo Contest, which is open to all NPLD volunteers! The contest will showcase the natural beauty of our country's public lands and give volunteers the chance to win great prizes from AVEENO®. The contest has two categories. The first is “Volunteers in Action,” highlighting the great work taking place on NPLD and all of the people who make the day a success. The second category, “Transformative Change,” will enable volunteers who care so much about our public places to show the nation the impact they’ve made during NPLD. In addition to great AVEENO® gifts for the contest winners, there will be a $500 donation made to the sites affiliated with the top five photos in the “Transformative Change” category in support of their commitment to transformation!
Kautz Creek: Nature's Power Is Evident
August 28, 2008 - 5:06pm
I used to know exactly how many switchbacks it took to get to Indian Henry's Hunting Ground from Kautz Creek. I have forgotten the number, but there are many. I did remember most of the trail was in the forest, an advantage on a hot day.
August 28, 2008 - 5:06pm
I used to know exactly how many switchbacks it took to get to Indian Henry's Hunting Ground from Kautz Creek. I have forgotten the number, but there are many. I did remember most of the trail was in the forest, an advantage on a hot day.
Popular N.C. Beach Reopened for Vehicles
August 28, 2008 - 4:58pm
A popular beach on North Carolina's Outer Banks that has been closed to off-road vehicles has been reopened by the National Park Service in time for Labor Day weekend visitors.' The Cape Hatteras National Seashore said Thursday the area known as Bodie Island Spit is open to give fishermen access to Oregon Inlet.
August 28, 2008 - 4:58pm
A popular beach on North Carolina's Outer Banks that has been closed to off-road vehicles has been reopened by the National Park Service in time for Labor Day weekend visitors.' The Cape Hatteras National Seashore said Thursday the area known as Bodie Island Spit is open to give fishermen access to Oregon Inlet.
